Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Final Day

Our departure day has unfortunately arrived and we were forced to pack up all of our gear, souvenirs and belongings that we had accumulated over the past two weeks one final time. We had a 6am wake up call in Munich that never came because of a "computer problem". We had a few "computer problems" today, but more on that later.

We had another usual Euro breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausages and fresh fruit that we quickly gobbled up since we figured we should be at the airport at about 7:30ish, so we had to catch the S8 train to head to airport. Just as we walked down the stairs to the train it showed up, so we figured it would turn out to be a great day.

We got to the airport and in most European airports the only thing past the security check is the gate at the duty free shopping. So we stopped and had a kafe late and a kafee from the greatest automated machine ever.

Since we are truly guys and don't think of anything until the last minute, we did some quick souvenir shopping at the "last chance" store. Great name. We went through the BusinessElite check in with no line while the rest of the plane had to wait to check in. Fancy men have fancy things to do and we shouldn't be bothered with lines!

We went through security and it was a breeze and everything makes sense. And by makes sense I mean you don't have to take your shoes off. Oh, I almost forgot that Ken somehow forgot to put his Gerber knife that he got as a gift from the Marines he worked with in Iraq so we made a donation to the Munich Fluhagen and made some worker's day.

We browsed the duty free and waited to board.

Once on the plane (we of course boarded through the fancy lane, or BreezeWay as Delta calls it. I like my name better) we selected our 5 course meal, took off and had to endure fully reclining seats for the 10hour 22min flight time. It was tough! 5 movies later, we arrived in Atlanta at about 2:30pm local time.

It is so confusing landing in an American airport on an international flight that they had to show a video prior to landing. We had to deplane, take the form(s) you filled out on the plane down a hallway with 3 sections of moving sidewalk, give them and your passport to the customs agent, get stamped in, go down stairs, claim your checked luggage, give a form to another customs agent who decides if your bags need to be checked (on a side note, I overheard an agent say that they "one" coming from Amsterdam at 3:15. I wonder if everyone's bags get checked on that flight) and re-check your luggage.

Once all this is through, you go through security again (be sure to remove your shoes) and then make your connecting flight in the regular terminals.

In Germany when we entered, we got out passports stamped and moved on.

So in Atlanta and back in the US where it was nice to be able to read the signs and understand conversations, we found our gate, went to the bathroom and boarded. We got out preflight drink and waited for an hour at the gate. Remember those pesky computer problems? Evidently the FAA's clearance center crashed and they had to clear flights manually, which worked in the 1970s but not today.

We had to pushback from the gate because they needed the gate and we spent the next 3 hours on the tarmack. We had a 4 hour lay over so we weren't to concerned. Once we got our departure approval we were still 35th in line, and because everything was being done manually, about every minute a plane was taking off instead of every 10 seconds on a normal day. Thank god for on-demand movies!

We finally got off the ground and the domestic first class is nothing compared to international. No linens, no sleeper seats, but at least you had free drinks!

We landed in Salt Lake, made it to the plane with 10 minutes to spare before boarding (which is better than a lay over of 4 hours) and had to wait another 30 minutes because of an unaccompanied minor. Grrr!

And it stunk to be back in coach seats. Don't they know who I am?

We got into Butte at about 11 and called it a night after a long day of travel. I'll recount the trip tomorrow after a bit of sleep.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Last Day in Europe

Today was our last day in Germany before flying back to the US. We got up at about 8 or so and headed down for breakfast. The breakfast the hotel was fantastic. Every meat including sausages, eggs, bacon, turkey, everything. They had pineapple and watermelon, 4 different kinds of juice, yogurt, pretty much everything. It was expensive (what isn't over here?) But worth it.

We had to get the bikes back by 10am to the rental place so we donned a helmet and road the 2 blocks to the rental shop. We turned the bikes in a luckily he didn't notice the few new scratches so we were off scott free.

We walked back to the hotel, packed the rest of our things, checked out and went to the subway to go to our new hotel for the night that was nearer to the airport. Travel with 150lbs of gear on a packed subway is always fun.

We got the station where the hotel was, departed the S-bahn (surface train) and walked the 2 blocks to the hotel in the rain. We checked in, unloaded our bags in the room and headed back to the station to go to the airport and do a "dry run" as Captain Ken insisted.

We found the Delta counter and headed back to the subway station in the airport to head to the Olympic area in Munich.

I knew that the BMW plant and museum was somewhere in Munich but as we departed the train I saw a sign for BMW Wert (world). Right out of the subway station was the factory, museum and showroom. That was planning!

We spent about 2 hours at the BMW World as they had a ton of neat displays and information about their cars and motorcycles. We tried to go to the museum and, just our luck goes, they were closed on Mondays.

We walked across the bridge to the site of the 1972 Olympics and went to the pool where Mark Spitz won his 7 gold medals, which I guess doesn't matter anymore.

We walked to the stadium and had a brautwurst and a coke and walked by the memorial to the Israeli athletes who were executed by terrorists. It was somber to be at the same site, even 36 years later.

We headed back on the train, and walked around downtown again, bought a few shirts, had another expensive meal and of course beers. We headed back on the train, had another beer at the hotel bar and we're hitting the sack for our early morning tomorrow.

We leave at 10:05am here, or 2:05am in Montana. We'll be back in Butte tomorrow at 10:30pm tomorrow. I'd complain, but we're flying BusinessElite so it will be a great flight.

Cheers!

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Back in Munich, Germany

We got up and had a fantastic breakfast with the usual, but this time we had eggs, bacon and a fruit salad. A welcome surprise and a great 'ending' breakfast for the last day official on the road.

We rolled out of town and we were met with fantastic weather. A welcome change from yesterday: partly cloudy and about 15C; absolutely gorgeous for the final day of riding.

We only had about 250km to cover today to make it back to Munich so we just meandered around the farmlands, but honestly it was a welcome change from the switch backs of the alps. We had to refer to the GPS only a few times during the ride, and finally to check into the hotel. For once the thing worked great and brought us to the front door of the hotel. We parked right in front, and checked in and headed to the room.

After packing the gear in the sea bag, we took showers and headed downtown on the train as if we were locals. We went to an Irish bar for dinner and had fish and chips and pizza. I've never had so much pizza in my life as this trip and my marathon training is going to be great coming home.

We then headed downstairs to the assuie bar and had a few pints and watched the closing ceremonies with the staff and a guy from London who was full out drunk. good times!

We headed back on the subway to the hotel and course stopped in the hotel bar for a couple of ,33liters. We had a few, then called it a night.

Tomorrow we just have to turn in the bikes, find the new hotel and drink more beer before real life comes back.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Splitting Lanes and Rain, Rain, Rain

Today started out with our usual breakfast. The night before was extremely hot in the room since we didn't have any a/c. We had the windows open but there was very little in the form of a breeze in the middle of the city.

We got started at about 10am and quickly got started to a wrong turn that caused a quick circle the wagons. We regrouped and made our way up our first pass of Jaufenpass. It was 21C when we left Merano, Italy and 6C at the top of the pass. Just a bit chilly.

When we got to the bottom we arrived in Bressanone, Italy to a massive amount of stopped traffic. This would be horrible if we were in a car and would have added about 2 hours to our drive time. Fortunatley we were on motorcycles, which means splitting lanes. In California, this is taking your life in your hands but here in Europe, if you're on a motorcycle you own the road. It seems that laws don't apply to motorcycles which is great, since we happened to be traveling by them and people literally move out of your way so you can get by. It is great.

We followed a few bikes while splitting lanes but we spotted a Polizia and quickly ducked into the lane thinking we would be caught if we tried to continue. Until we saw 3 bikes go by the cop as if he was a Peugot 206 (a POS "minicar"). We caught their coat tails and quickly made it into town passing about 200 or 300 cars.

We made it out and headed to J. Grodinerpass which was in the Italian Dolomites. It started to rain for the first time since the first day on the trip. I had taken out my rain liner of my pants, so we had to stop and a few lucky europeans got to see my sculpted legs and underwear while I clumsily zipped them in on the side of the road. We donned the rest of rain gear and continued onward on the pass.

We then went to Paso di Campolongo and then continued on to Paso di Fabraego which led us into Cortina, Italy. It started raining heavily. A "gully washer" as Captain Kenny called it. We navigated around the roundabouts and decided to pull off because we couldn't see anything. We pulled into a gas station with an "automat" (pay at the pump - instructions in Italian) and did not accept credit cards. We put in 20 euros and Ken somehow picked diesel and put in .98 liters of diesel into the Honda. An honest mistake as it is truly tough to tell. Gas handles here are green, the opposite of in the states. He realized it, and a few arm flails later her shut it off, using 2 euros worth of diesel. A receipt printed out to claim our 18 euros of change from the attendant who was on lunch for the next two hours. Looks like we made a donation to the gas station in the town. Great.

We found another station and diluted the diesel a bit more and continued on in the rain.

We continued on to Paso de Gemirk which led us to Toblaco, Italy. Still in the rain. After the pass we dropped down into Austria. We stopped for a gas/warmup/pee/coffee/sugar free red bull break and continued on, still in the rain. We continued on to another toll tunnel which was a welcome break from the rain as we had 8km of dry roads and warmth. I had hoped at the end of the tunnel we would be transported to dry roads and blue skies but I was mistaken. More rain.

We then continued on in Austria to our destination town of Kaprun where we pulled off before we got into town, put the hotel name in the GPS and headed into town to find the hotel. We found the hotel, except it was demolished and there condos being built in its location. Another win! We stopped in a parking lot and asked at the Hotel Gasthof Mitteregger (www.mitteregger.at). They had zimmer frei (vacant rooms). We snatched one up and took the greatest shower ever.

We had dinner, beers, more beers and then a few more beers at the bar. The bartender was 17 and thought that America was the greatest country in the world and Bush is the worst ever. Clinton was the best and knew more US history than I did.

Tomorrow we'll be back in Munich, Germany to turn in the bikes on Monday and then fly out on Tuesday.

Danke!

Friday, August 22, 2008

Merano, Italy. Day 2

Today was a free day in Merano, Italy. We figured we would leave the bikes parked at the hotel and do some sightseeing, which includes a church built in the 12th century and palace built around the same time.

But first we needed to do laundry since we were out of clothes. Our hotel concierge put two marks on a map of the laundry in the city of we loaded up a few bags and set off. Next the laundromat was a washing machine dealer who had a sign that the store was closed for the month. Evidently over here they work live and not the other way around like in the US.

We tried to figure out how to work the machines since everything was in Italian, which was fun. We ended up looking like monkeys pushing buttons until something moved. We did get "green and clean" detergent so I feel better that we're environmentally conscious even on vacation.

We finished up with the laundry, headed back the hotel to put everything away and head out.

We walked uptown to "old Merano" which consisted of shop after shop after shop of high end apparel and everything else you could imagine. Prada, Gucci, etc. were all represented. We walked around and stopped and had gelato and sat by the river and people watched for a few minutes. We found a medieval entrance to the city, took some pictures and walked back into town for... Beers at a sidewalk cafe! After a few glasses of Forst (the "local") beer we went to a shop and I bought an Itilia soccer jersey and we headed back to the hotel.

After a brief rest, we decided to walk down to the hotel that we were originally going to stay at and have some more Italian food. The restaurant was about 3km away so it gave us a chance to work off some of the beers we had been consuming. On the way down we found a tiny shop with an Itilia tshirt (what I really wanted to get - it's legal because I'm 1/4 Itilian) for only 10€. Quite a deal. We bought the shirt and continued on for dinner.

I had a pasta with artichoke hearts and shrimp and Ken had a clam rissuecttio and this time we had a few glasses of wine. You can't come to Italy and not try the wine.

We continued back and decided we wanted some more gelato to negate the walking so we walked back to the center square and I had the best stuff ever - magala which was like a rum rasin esq. That was good eats. We walked by the Therme Merano which was 30 pools heated by hot springs. The building was beautiful and like all things pretty, expensive. Also, in the brochure it says "your attention is drawn to the fact that bathing costumes are not worn in the sauna.". Perfect.

We walked back to the hotel, grabbed a quick shower and are going to bed.

Tomorrow we'll embark for Austria.

Gratzi y Ciao!
Today we got an early start since we had "about" 300km to cover. Ken's version of 300km is in real life about 500. 512km to be exact.

We had our usual breakfast but this time the addition of scrambled eggs that I didn't partake in because they looked like snot from a cow out back. The bread, yogurt and cereal was great though.

We headed out on the same road that we took into Tasch since its a one way in and out of the town. Our goal was to make it Merano, Italy by nightfall via 5 mountain passes.

The first pass was Furkapass that dropped us into Andermatt, Switz. We left and continued onto Oberalpass. After that, we continued onto Leakerheidepass. Then we went to Juliapass that put us in St. Moritz, Switzerland. Then we went south and went over Pasa del Berino which put us into Tirano, Italy where the 2006 winter Olympics were held.

We left there and went to Stelviopass which had 39 hair pin turns on the way up and 44 on the way down with glacial mountain ranges in the background. How they figured that this was a safe thing to allow people to travel on amazed me. It was literally 1000M straight down at one point and no guard rail. Great stuff indeed!

After the pass, we traveled through the apple orchards into Merano, Italy which is where the fun began.

I entered in what I thought was the correct street intersections into the GPS and got a route for Captain Kenny to follow. We put the unit in his tank bag and set off to find the hotel. We routed to where the GPS said to go, and it was a one way street. Ken is not the person to stop and regroup like a normal, sane person so he just keep going, arms flailing in some way to communicate even though I don't know the name, address or what the GPS told him to do. He finally pulls over and we regroup and re-enter the crossroads again and set off.

We stop a few times to reiterate the directions and continue on, to the same road as before. We bolt forward on the "one way" (I really think it was a normal street) and it routes us to the same place, and no hotel in sight. Ken is getting pissed now. He goes down an alley, shuts the bike off and it disgusted. Then a 15 or 16 year old kid arrives on a scooter. It turns out he speaks pretty good english and tells us the proper way to the hotel. We were waaay off.

We go around a roundabout that we had been on before and instead we went right instead of straight. We had passed the hotel twice before. After parking, Ken goes in to check in and I stay outside to guard the bikes because I'm the threatening, tough one of the group.

He comes out of the hotel and says that they gave away our room by accident. Now I'm not sure how you can give away a reserved room by accident, but they must have offered them more than we did. No worries, they made another reservation for us at another hotel. And they gave us a poorly drawn map, and no name but we did have a telephone number. This sounded like a great idea!

We set off, got put down one way streets, hand gestures, two phone calls and a run in with the Policia because we were parked on a bike path (whoops) we found the hotel. And by found the hotel, I mean we saw a guy waving in the street and motioned us into a parking area. Great stuff and a super nice guy. We showered and went down the block and had some authentic Italian, beers and some gelato for dessert. Life is good.

We're staying at the hotel domus mea http://www.domusmea.com if you want to check it out.

Tomorrow were going to hang out in town and do some laundry!

Ciao!

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

The Matterhorn

Today we left Sierre, Switzerland after having out usual breakfast except today we had ham (no mystery meat) and a wide variety of yogurt. Exciting stuff, huh?

We left the Casino Hotel (which much to my surprise had nothing of what we would consider a casino; only a strip mall of sorts. Crazy Swiss.) And fueled up and hit the road to go to a few mountain passes and then make our way to Tasch, Suisse, where you can take a train to Zermont since cars are not allowed in the town.

We found our passes rode on the "old passe" where we rode on about 30 switchbacks on a highway that was made about 200 years ago. We met a nice couple on two BMWs who had been through Butte a few years ago on a trip they took. Small world, for sure. We only had a few circle the wagons but we finally made it to Tasch, Switz. at about 18:30. We quickly showered and headed to the train station to get tickets to Zermatt for dinner and to see the Matterhorn, or as the guy at the hotel desk said, "Disneyland".

We entered Zermatt (I didn't get a Tshirt) and walked up and took a few pictures and ate dinner at Hotel Schlante outside on the cafe. We had a few beers and did a bit of shopping and headed back on the train to Tasch. Back at the hotel, we asked where we could get a few beers and the lady at the hotel opened up the "private bar" for us complete with music and chocolates (that we stole from a untendered bar; we're rebels). We had a few beers and called it a night.

Tomorrow we head to our homeland of Itilia!
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